My first of 3 days spent in Gangaria (the small little town at the base of the valley of flowers) was quite interesting. Thanks to a lovely language barrier, I was under the impression that where my guide dropped me, I would be taking a taxi straight to my hotel followed by hiking after. So I loaded up my super heavy backpack as well as my travel back pack and set off in the Jeep. However, the Jeep stopped at the start of a 10km trek that could only be made by foot or horse. I had about 20 guys surround me asking me what I would like to do and all laughing at me for bringing such a heavy bag. They didn't get that I was feeling just as confused. So after a lot of discussion, i realized that my best option was to load that poor horse up with both myself and my bags. I felt so bad for the poor creature. But that was a long ass trek! It took us 4 hours on horse back up some really steep inclines. What also amazed me was that the guy who was in charge of the horse just ran along side them as if it was nothing.
The sites along the way were absolutely beautiful and when we arrived to the city, it was a perfect day. The sun was shining, the skies were blue, and all you heard was the sweet clamour of bells whilst the horses ran everywhere. I thought it might be too late to start a hike since I feared coming down the mountains in the dark so instead I had some lunch and then went to sit near a waterfall and take it all in. The only downside to my plan of peaceful mediation and appreciation was my white mug. Everyone kept coming up to me asking for selfies. I climbed up on a big rock to avoid the paparazzi and they just skipped on up to sit next to me. I try to just be happy and friendly since they mean no harm but it really gets a little frustrating when I am trying to just relax and think.
Day two was a whole different ball game. It started out raining so I didnt start my trek until about 10:30am. And let me tell you, that trek was the hardest physical activity I have yet to do in my life. I hiked over 9km all uphill to the top of a mountain to reach Hathi Parvat (a very famous and holy site for the Sikh community). Let's just start by saying that when you are offered a horse dozens of times on the journey, you should take the offer. It is probably for a good reason. I, however, was thinking that I had all day to trek up there as nothing else was on my agenda, so I would take my time and enjoy it. Not to mention my boney ass was still so sore from the horse ride up to my hotel. So I decided to hike it. I was joined by an Indian couple from Delhi for part of it but the wife was struggling hardcore so I had to leave them behind. Unfortunately, as I was making my way I was informed that the temple closes at 2pm and that I would need to seriously hustle if I was to make it. Trying to tell a girl who never exercises at home to hustle up a crazy steep mountain is an absolute joke. But I had it in my head that I was going to make it so I refused to give up. Fueled by sweet cookie biscuits, water, and alot of pitbull, I hauled ass. At one point the couple from Delhi passed me on horseback with the look of defeat. Cheaters.
The journey started off beautiful until I was in this immensely thick fog with my visibility limited to 5 feet in front of me. I kept praying that it would clear up before I got there so I could at least enjoy the view. I had a feeling I would be underwhelmed by the temple. As I reached the top, there were floods of people coming back down and everyone was shocked I was walking on foot and going so late. Many said it would be impossible to make it on time, others cheered me on telling me to just move quickly! So the last 15 minute stretch I cranked my gears and would you believe I made it by 2pm!! I was the last one!! And let me say, I could not stop laughing. The temple looked like a basement room with different mismatching rugs all over the floor, posters hanging in every other direction, and a make shift shrine in the middle. And the lake used by people to purify and cleanse their souls was so foggy it was basically invisible to me. I took some pictures with the guards cause they were adorable, washed my hands in the holy lake, and then headed back down about 5 minutes later...laughing for a good portion of it. I was just amazed at the agony I put my body through for all of that. And no view whatsoever!! It was comical. But I was actually incredibly proud of myself. I even passed people on the way down who had started their hike 5 hours earlier. Everyone praised my speed. I felt like a superwoman poser...but I savored every moment.
On the way back down I was asked by these 3 people if I could help one of the men by holding his hand. He had slipped and hurt his knee and was thus hobbling his way back. Part of me wanted to pretend I didn't hear them since all I could focus on was getting some food and face planting in bed. But I stopped to help him down about ⅓ of the mountain. My body was aching so bad and the pressure he put on my left wrist (my weak side) made it feel like it was going to snap. But we all pushed through it and as a token of thanks they bought me dinner and candies. Score! They also all gave me their contact information for when I return to India.
My night ended with me devouring a shit ton of Indian food and then retreating to my room for a bath. There is no shower head in my room only a cold water tap. Did I say cold? My mistake. I meant to say FREEZING. We are in the Himalayas people...its freezing in the evenings. So the man downstairs boiled a big bucket of water for me and brought it to my room so I could have a bucket shower. So picture me like shmeigal from Lord of the Rings crouched near the ground shivering and pouring little pitchers of water over my aching body. It was a site that would fuel your nightmares for sure.
Though I didn't actually want to ever move again, I set my alarm for 5:30am for my last trek to the valley of flowers. This was the main highlight of my tour. And when I awoke, it was pouring! I was devastated. But still, I got some breakfast and prayed. 8, 9, 10am...still pouring. It was until just around 11 that the rain subsided. I figured it was now or never...best haul ass so as to make it there. I tried not to think about landslides or me just being spastic on the slick trails as they are all loose rocks on the side of high cliffs. Everyone kept asking me on the way if I was going alone and looked at me confused. That was reassuring. But I would meet and walk with different indian groups along the way. This one group of young guys took me under their wing for the first stretch and held my hand as I walked through the water of river/waterfall thing since the bridge was busted. I was so grateful for them. I also spent a long amount of time with this Indian couple and their guy friend they adopted this morning at the start of the hike. They were so nice and it was very pleasant to walk with people as we could all look out for each other.
The hike was absolutely stunning. There were colorful flowers that lined the path and the many of the tree’s bark looked like it had been painted with watercolors. The beginning portion of the hike you pass by waterfalls and a large bustling river. But then as you get higher you see the mountains until you finally round the corner and see the brightest green valley you've ever seen in your life. It was such a feeling! It just looks so pure and untouched by human hands. It truly was breathtaking. I got so excited that I just started quickening my pace. I could even see some of the snow capped mountains in the distance. I felt so blessed to be able to witness this beauty as only a few hours prior I was almost in tears with disappointment from the rain.
I decided to stray away from my group as they went further, opting to climb up some high rocks to sit and admire. I felt so humbled and at peace. With each new trip I take, I continue to just be in awe of how beautiful the world truly is. Being in such places really just makes you tip your hat off to the big man with amazement and gratitude. It was magical.
As is the case with all beauty, it can't last forever. My brief time in that spot taking in the valley was wonderful but fleeting. A huge thick wave of fog started to flood the valley devouring all of its green beauty. This actually made me laugh again ( I swear I am not losing it!). I just felt like God gave me a little gift to take home with me and then said okay, gotta get back to the storm now. So with that I started my trek back. I snagged a few rocks on the way because they all had this beautiful shimmering silver quality about them. It made it feel like it was a magical path to the secret valley of beauty. And although the flowers weren't in full bloom (there are over 400 kinds) there were still so many that I was able to take in. I even made sure to stop and smell them!
With that being said, my body hates me. Every muscle and bone hurts me. I'm pretty sure I broke a bone in my foot and my knees are about as worn out as those of a 95 year old lady with arthritis. If I can move in the morning, I will snag a horse and head out to find Ajay. It will be another 4 hour trek followed by a 7 hour car ride. I actually can't wait to sit for 7 hours….
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